July 28, 2017 at 9:00 pm #5257
So. I’m addicted. It’s official. All I want to do is alpine climbs.
Metolius? BD? Camp?
What were your first purchases when delving into the world of trad? What pieces are MUST HAVES when first starting out?
Do I just buy nuts and go from there? Definitely don’t have the cash to buy a full rack right now… but want to pick up some pieces and slowly add pieces as time goes on!July 28, 2017 at 11:05 pm #5286
Black diamond ultra lights! Maybe not must have firsties but they are sooo good, Check em out and compare to wild country friends.
one piece at a time lady…you will get there 🙂June 15, 2018 at 6:45 pm #6666
When I bought my first rack (which i did buy a full rack of single cams that I had saved up for), I focused on a size range (BD) of around a .5 – 3. A single rack of that plus a single rack of nuts got me started super well. I led around on that single rack for far longer than probably I should have, then started buying doubles one at a time as I could find them on sale. I have a mix of regular BD, metolius mastercams, and really love aliens and wish I had more than one (that I bootied haha). The ultralights are sweet, but I have done a ton of alpine climbing with my regular old BD camalots.
My must- have at the moment is two fold: first off, do yourself a solid and buy a rack of nuts from DMM (the wallnuts). Their alloy is wonderful and softer and bites rock really really well. And second, if you are brave enough for the learning curve, I would just go buy the DMM offset nuts (both the offset wallnuts and the peenuts is what I have). Honestly, I rarely use a regular nut anymore. This does lead to some swearing by my seconds who are not as used to cleaning them, and they definitely can get stuck much easier, however especially in granite rock, you are never dealing with a parallel constriction and they just fit into way more spaces than they seem like they will!
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